总线自愈技术
2010年6月14日 at 上午12:24分类:调光技术文章
传统意义上的总线在出现一个断裂点后,系统可能出现灾难性的瘫痪。
有些厂家为避免此类事故发生,提出总线自愈概念。
更多…
分类: 调光技术文章
照明是一个用电能转换成光能做工的过程,在这个转换过程中,还会伴随产生发热等损耗。我国照明用电量年消耗约2000亿千瓦时,占年发电量的12%左右。怎样用最少的电能发出最多的、质量最好的光,怎样降低发光的热损耗和材料损耗,这是一个摆在人类面前的大课题。
绿色照明源于20世纪90年代,它是指通过科学的照明设计,采用高效的节电照明产品,运用合理的照明控制方法,达到节电、保护照明环境和提高照明质量。
绿色照明是美国国家环保局于上个世纪90年代初提出的概念。完整的绿色照明内涵包含高效节能、、、等4项指标,不可或缺。高效节能意味着以消耗较少的电能获得足够的照明,从而明显减少电厂大气污染物的排放,达到环保的目的。安全、舒适指的是光照清晰、柔和及不产生、眩光等有害光照,不产生。
推广绿色照明工程就是逐步普及绿色高效照明灯具,以替代传统的低效照明光源。
可是在我国,在城市每500居民中,知道绿色照明的还不到两人。
(1)保护环境,包括减少照明器具生命周期内的污染物排放,采用洁净光源、自然光源和绿色材料,控制光污染;
(2)节约能源,以紧凑型荧光灯替代白炽灯为例,可节电70%以上,高效电光源可使冷却灯具散发出热量的能耗明显减少。
(3)有益健康,提够舒适、愉悦、安全的高质量照明环境;
(4)提高工作效率,这比节省电费更有价值;
(5)营造体现现代文明的光文化。
1、使用紧凑型荧光灯替代白炽灯,可以节电约70%。
2、用细管三基色荧光灯替代普通粗管荧光灯,可以节电约15%。用T8、T5细管荧光灯替代T12粗管荧光灯可以节电约10%、30%,投资成本一年之内可以回收。
3、用新型高效的高压钠灯、金属卤化物灯替代高压汞灯、低效钠灯、卤钨灯。新型高效的高压钠灯适合于高照度和长寿命的室内场所、金属卤化物适合于高屋顶工业建筑、商场、展示厅。
4、半导体LED灯适用于交通信号指示灯、汽车尾灯、转向灯、广告牌、夜景照明等。电能消耗仅为白炽灯的1/10,节能灯的1/4,寿命是白炽灯的100倍。
5、用电子镇流器、低耗能电感镇流器替代普通高耗能电感镇流器。
绿色照明的基础
优质光源具体体现在以下四点。
1.灯光源发出的光为全色光。 所谓全色光,即光谱连续分布在人眼可见范围内,视觉不易疲劳。
2.灯光光谱成分中应没有紫外光和红外光。
因为长期过多接受紫外线,不仅容易引起角膜炎,还会对晶状体、视网膜、脉络膜等造成伤害。红外线极易被水吸收,过多的红外线经过人眼晶状体聚集时即被大量吸收,久而久之‘晶状体会发生变性,导致白内障。
3.光的色温应贴近自然光。
色温是用温度表示光的颜色的一种量化指标,因为人们长期在自然光下生活,人眼对自然光适应性强,视觉效果好。试验证明:自然光条件下的视觉对比灵敏度高于人工光5%—20%以上。
4.灯光为无频闪光。
频闪光是发光时出现一定频率的亮暗交替变化。普通日光灯的供电频率为50赫兹,表示发光时每秒亮暗100次,属于低频率的频闪光,会使人眼的调节器官,如睫状肌、瞳孔括约肌等处于紧张的调节状态,导致视觉疲劳,从而加速青少年近视。如果发光时的供电频率提高到数百赫兹以上,或成直流供电,人眼即不会有频闪感觉,也不会造成视力伤害,这种光称为无频闪光。
必须同时具备以上四方面要求的光,才算是优质光源。目前,市场上众多灯光源均存在不同程度的不足。如白炽灯,因红外光谱超过发光总光谱60%以上,全色光平衡不理想,色温较低,既造成电能的大量浪费,对人眼也不利。普通日光灯因紫外光成分较多,又居于低频率的频闪光,故光源质量不甚理想。目前市场上较多的电子整流的节能荧光灯,有一部分光源为无频闪光,又为全色光,色温也较接近自然光,不足之处是有紫外光。
照明技术—— 绿色照明的后盾
要让绿色照明到位,首先要有好的光源质量,再匹配优质的照明技术,两者缺一不可。照明技术的好坏体现在以下四个方面。
1.眩光小。
凡是感到刺眼的光就是眩光,极易使眼睛发生调节痉挛,严重时可损伤视网膜,导致失明。优质的照明技术必须在灯具上装有消去直射和反射眩光的特殊技术措施,尽量将光源作漫射处理,同时使光能损失最小,成为人们常说的十分“柔和“的光进入人的视野。
2.照度高。
所谓照度,即发光体发出的光能在台面上反映出的高度。无眩光条件下的适当高照度,可使眼睛在观察物体时感到轻松。
3.照度分布均匀。
自然光的照度分布最好,在人的视觉观察范围内,从中心至边缘,均匀度为100%,因而不仅视觉效果好,而且长时间观察不易疲劳。当人工光的照度分布均匀性达到60%以上时,对人眼适应性及视觉效果影响不大当其均匀性小于50%时,人眼的视觉效果和视觉疲劳会明显变差和加重。
4.观察功能强。
照明的目的在于观察,若给观察提供深层次的方便,如用特殊的技术,在台灯的合适位置上装一个优良的光学放大镜,既可使眼睛看东西轻松,又能观察肉眼看不请的东西。
绿色灯具呼之欲出。在信息时代,视觉的健康太重要了。要保护好眼睛,不仅应重视视觉卫生,也不能忽视用灯科学。目前,眼疾的发生率呈不断上升趋势,如视力下降、近视眼、白内障等,还有“老花”眼、“青光”眼提前发生,除极少数是由于遗传因素的作用外,大多是视觉卫生与视觉光学等因素综合影呐的结果。
1 主题内容与适用范围
本标准规定了调光设备的常用术语。
本标准适用于舞台、演播室、摄影棚、娱乐场所等使用场合的调光设备。其它使用场合的调光设备也可参照执行。
2 引用标准
GB/T 13582—92 电子调光设备通用技术条件
GB/T 14218—93 电子调光设备性能参数与测试方法
GB/T 2900.33—94 电工名词术语 变流器
GB 15734—1995 电子调光设备无线电骚扰特性限值及测量方法
3 术语
3.1 一般术语
3.1.1 调光器 dimming equipment
在控制信号作用下,能实现灯光亮度变化的装置。
3.1.2 调光柜 dimmer rack
调光器的柜式组合。
3.1.3 控制台 console
向调光器输出控制信号,进行调光控制的工作台。
3.1.3.1 手动控制台 manual console
以段控或开关式编组为控制方式的灯光控制台。
3.1.3.2 微机控制台 memory console
以中央处理器(CPU)和微处理器(MPU)为控制核心,用各类微存储器记忆编排内容的灯光控制台。
3.1.4 控制信号 control signal
设备控制部分馈给调光器的信号。
3.1.5 控制回路 control channel
独立变化控制信号的最小单元,简称通道。
3.1.6 调光回路 dimmer
在控制信号作用下,能实现调光的独立功率输出回路,简称回路。
3.1.7 亮度 level
控制回路输出电压的比率。
3.1.8 模拟调光 analogue dimming
受模拟信号控制进行灯光控制的方式。
3.1.9 数字调光 digital dimming
受数字信号控制,以数字方式进行触发的灯光控制方式。
3.1.10 组 group
若干具有相同亮度的控制回路组成的一个调光集合。
3.1.11 集 submaster
始终保持固定亮度比例的控制回路组成的一个调光集合。
3.1.12 段 concentrator
所有独立且亮度不一定相等的控制回路组成的一个调光集合。
3.1.13 Q cue
具有各自亮度的各个控制回路以及相关的时间系数的集合。
3.1.14 分Q cue part
作为Q的子集,随着Q的启动/结束,而启动/结束。
3.1.15 场 scene
包括Q、段、集、组等所有亮度参数组合而形成的一个稳定的输出状态。
3.1.16 特技效果 effect/chase
组、集、段、Q之外的按特定规律变化的灯光效果。
3.1.17 干扰抑制 interference suppress-ion
防止或减少干扰产生的措施。
3.1.18 数据传输协议 data transmission pro-
tocol
灯光控制系统中有关灯光数据值传输的格式规定。
3.2 功能术语
3.2.1 单控 single control
一个控制回路的独立控制。
3.2.2 组控 group control
具有相同亮度的若干控制回路的集中控制。
3.2.3 集控 submaster control
具有不同亮度的若干控制回路的集中控制。
3.2.4 段控 concentrator control
实现段与段之间灯光交替变化的控制方式。
3.2.5 总控 grandmaster
最高一级的控制。
3.2.6 渐明 fade in
灯光在原有基础上逐渐变亮。
3.2.7 渐暗 fade out
灯光在原有基础上逐渐变暗。
3.2.8 突明 sudden bright
灯光在原有基础上瞬时变亮。
3.2.9 突暗 sudden dark
灯光在原有基础上瞬时变暗。
3.2.10 切光 blackout
将受控灯光瞬间关灭。
3.2.11 预选 preset
灯光场的预先设置。
3.2.12 交替变化 crossfade
在同一时间内,一些灯光变明,另一些灯光变暗的过程。
3.2.13 模拟显示 mimic display
能同时直观显示所有受控灯位及亮度的显示方式。
3.2.14 演员开关 actor switch
在演出中,为剧情需要设置的由演员操纵的开关。
3.2.15 系统设置 setup
对系统参数、外设操作、各类曲线等的编辑和选择。
3.2.16 宏定义 macro
为简化操作步骤而将若干个顺序的操作步骤组合在某一键上,并赋予其特殊定义。
3.2.17 独立 independent
与之相关联的控制回路,不再受控于其它调光控制器的控制方式。
3.2.18 操作杆 fader
能连续改变亮度或时间信号的控制器,简称杆。
3.2.19 控制轮 wheel
通过轮的转动连续改变亮度或时间信号的控制器。
3.2.20 显示 display
关于通道亮度、编排内容、系统设置等各种信息的直观提示。
3.2.21 预演 preview
仅在显示屏上显示预选内容而不实时输出的一种状态。
3.2.22 演出表 playback sheet
规定演出中全部Q、效果等演出次序,及相互时间关系的表格。
3.2.23 页 page
扩展面板单控杆或集控杆数量的一种方式;
扩展屏幕显示内容的一种形式。
3.2.24 暗改 blind modification
在演出状态下,不影响实时灯光输出状态的一种修改方式。
3.2.25 自动替换 tracksheet
被修改控制回路在演出中由规定了亮度百分比的替换控制回路,自动取代的一种修改方式。
3.2.26 联结 link
演出表中确定Q的演出顺序关系。
3.2.27 配接 patch
可通过键盘设置控制回路与调光回路的对应关系。
3.2.28 比例配接 propotional patch
带亮度比例的配接。
3.2.29 亮度优先 highest takes precedence
当某个控制回路同时受一种以上操作控制时,该控制回路输出其中最高的亮度值。
3.2.30 时间优先 latest takes precedence
当某个控制回路同时受一种以上操作控制时,该控制回路输出其中最后一个操作的亮度值。
3.2.31 遥控装置 remote console
分离于主控台之外的调光控制装置。
3.2.32 解码器 decoder
能将控制台输出信号转换成调光器所需控制信号的装置。
3.3 性能参数术语
3.3.1 最大输出电压 maximum output voltage
在规定的电网电源和额定负载条件下,调光器可输出电压的最大值。
3.3.2 最小输出电压 minimum output voltage
在规定的电网电源和额定负载条件下,调光器可输出电压的最小值。
3.3.3 输出电压的不一致性 output voltage dif-ference betweendimmers
含有两回路或两回路以上的调光器,在同一测试环境、相同负载、相同控制信号的条件下,各调光回路输出电压的不一致程度。
3.3.4 调光回路输出直流分量 direct component of output
由于输出电压正、负半周波形的不对称而产生的直流分量。
3.3.5 输出电压的温度漂移 output voltage tem-perature drift
在标准电网、额定负载及设定的控制电压下,因环境温度而引起的回路输出电压的变化。
3.3.6 控制信号不一致性 signal difference
between channels
在要求各控制回路有相同输出值时,各控制信号实际输出的不一致程度。
3.3.7 交替变化的偏差 crossfade deviation
两场设有相同亮度的控制回路在交替变化过程中控制信号实测值与预置值之差。
3.3.8 调光特性曲线 dimmer profile
调光器的输出电压值与输入亮度数据的函数关系。
3.3.9 变光特性曲线 fade profile
在调光时输出亮度随调光时间(或操作杆刻度)变化的曲线。
3.3.10 变光分辨率 fade resolution
灯光从关闭到全亮整个过程中的亮度等级。
3.3.11 上升时间 up time
Q从启动上升到稳定状态所需的时间。
3.3.12 下降时间 down time
Q从稳定状态下降到退出所需的时间。
3.3.13 变光时间 time
Q的上升时间或下降时间。
3.3.14 延迟时间 delay time
Q接到启动指令至开始变光所需的时间。
3.3.15 维持时间 hold time
Q从上升时间结束到下降时间开始之间的稳定时间。
3.3.16 间隔时间 follow time
当前Q开始下降至下一Q开始上升之间的时间。
3.3.17 响应时间 respond time
任一个操作结束到微机控制台输出相应控制信号所需的时间。
3.3.18 刷新速度 refresh rate
微机控制台在单位时间内对全部调光回路的控制信号输出次数。
3.4 特技效果
3.4.1 特效步 step
特技效果中的若干控制回路组合,可按照编号及时间依次执行,简称步。
3.4.2 点控 flash
通过按键通断产生的灯光效果。
3.4.3 特效点控 solo flash
被按键控制的调光回路点亮,其余回路熄灭的灯光效果。
3.4.4 闪烁效果 flick
各特效步明暗交替闪动的效果。
3.4.5 随机效果 random
各特效步随机输出的效果。
3.4.6 循环效果 cycle
末步与首步相连运行的效果。
3.4.7 积聚效果 build
各步逐步叠加输出的效果。
3.4.8 声频效果 audio frequency effect
按音源频率变化的效果。
3.4.9 声强效果 audio level effect
按音源强度变化的效果。
3.5 干扰抑制
3.5.1 误触发 false triggering
调光回路在不应导通时触发导通或在应该导通时触发失败的现象。
3.5.2 相位控制 phase control
改变调光回路中电流周期起始点的控制方式。
3.5.3 电流上升时间 current rise time
调光器在触发瞬间输出电流从10%升至90%所经历的时间。
3.5.4 电流上升曲线 current rise diagram
调光器在触发瞬间输出电流从0升至100%的上升波形。
3.5.5 骚扰特性限值 limit of disturbance
由国家指定的权威组织规定并经主管机关批准的无线电骚扰允许最大值。
3.5.6 抑制电感器 choke
为抑制电子调光设备的无线电骚扰而专门设计的电感器。
2009年11月26日 at 下午11:07分类:调光技术文章
1. 白炽灯—灯丝发光:
名称 别名 适用场所
普灯 普通灯泡 民用
卤钨灯 碘钨灯、石英卤素灯 广告牌、工作照明
冷光杯 反光杯灯 商场、重点照明、展览馆
PAR灯 水池、舞厅
2.气体放电灯:
名称 学名 适用场所
日光灯 低气压汞蒸气放电灯 办公室、家居
电子式节能灯 各种场所
汞灯 高气压汞蒸气放电灯 厂房、路灯
高压钠灯 用于道路灯具
金属卤化物灯 适用各种场所
二:光源的参数
1. 光通量(Φ)
单位:流明(lm)
定义:光源发射并被人的眼睛接收的能量之总和。
功 率 光 源 光通量(lm)
400W 高压钠灯 48000
1000W 普灯 10000
1000W 卤素灯 20000
2. 寿命(h)
光 源 寿命(小时)
高压钠灯 10000
卤素灯 3000
3. 显色性(Ra)
定义:光源对于物体自然原色的呈现程度
Ra数值越接近100,表示显色性越好。
表一
光源 显色指数(Ra)
普灯 100
卤素灯 100
日光灯 65
汞灯 45
钠灯 20
金卤灯 65
表二
Ra 感觉 用途
>90 极好 对色彩鉴别要求极高的场所,如印刷.印染品检验等
80-90 很好 彩色电视转播.陈列的展品照明
65-80 较好 室内照明
50-65 中等 室外照明
អ 较差 对色彩要求不高的场所,如停车场.货场等
4. 色温(K)
光源点燃后的光色与标准黑体加热到某一温度时的光色相同,该黑体当时的绝对温度称为光源的色温.
表一
类 别 色 温
暖色
2009年11月26日 at 下午11:02分类:调光技术文章
The information in this document is based on ESTA E1.3, Entertainment Technology – Lighting Control System – 0 to 10V Analog Control Protocol, Draft 9 June 1997 (CP/97-1003r1)
Before digital control systems, most remote control of lighting dimmers was done using an “wire per dimmer” system. Each dimmer had a dedicated control wire (or pair of wires). Low voltage DC control systems became the choice for many systems because of it’s safety and flexibility. Many different low voltage systems were used (0..10V,0..15V,0..24V,0..-10V, etc.) were used but over the time 0 to 10V became the most common. Zero voltage is considered off and full control voltage was considered full on. Today 0 to 10V system is also used for other control applications than lighting also (for example motor control).
The output of the controller shall be a steady DC voltage. When the control level is constant, the putput shall not change by more than +/-20mV. The output shall vary between 0 and 10 volts. Zero voltage represents off condition and then volts is full on. The output voltage shall never be less than -0.5V and nor more than +10.50V. Output voltage levels are to be measured with a load of 20 kohm.
Passive controllers, with unbuffered outputs, shall use potentiometers with a resistance value of 10K ohms or less (=output impedance of 5 kohms or less). Active controllers with buffered outputs must have an output impedance of 100 ohms or less and be capable of continuously sourcing at least 2.0 milliamperes.
Controllers and output devices shall be provided with a blocking diode (or similar circuit) such that each output presents an open circuit to any source voltage of more than itself. The blocking diodes allow multiple controllers or outputs to be paralled to control the same dimmers or receivers on a “highest takes precedence” basis.
It is recommended that controllers and output devices have current limiting on all outputs such that they are not damaged by short circuits to signal common. The control signal and all control connector pins shall be isolated from AC mains (line and neutral). It is encouraged that the control signa be isolated from earth ground.
Dimmer or other receiving device must produce an output condition corresponding to “off” with 0V input control voltage level and to “full” with 10V input control voltage level. The device must be capable of accepting any voltage between -0.5V and +15V withou damage. Voltage higher than +15V shall cause the device to remain at “full on”.
The input impedance of a dimmer or other receiving device shall be a nominal 100 Kohms (+/-20%). One controller output can be connected to multiple inputs, so the controller can see mugh lower inpedances than 100 kohms. Note: Prior ESTA E1.3 specification the input impedances of the dimmers varied widely.
Zero volts is considered the “off” condition. When dimmer receives zero volt input signal, it should turn it’s output off (there can be some idle voltage if defined on dimmer itself). In case of motion control, the receiver should position itself at one extreme. In case of speed or rate control, the receiver should set speed to minimum or stopped. In case of audio volume zero voltage could be off or maximum attenuation.
Note that when a console or other sending device is powered down or disconnected, it sends zero voltage to all receivers. The “off” condition of a receiver should always be a safe condition.
Ten volts is considered “on” condition. When a controller is sending a level od 100% or “full”, it should place ten volts on the output. When dimmer receives 10V input, it should tur its output fully on (can be less than full line voltage if maximum is defined so on dimmer). In the case of motion control, the receiver should position itself at the opposite position form “off”. A rate or speed control should go to it’s fastest speed.
The 0 to 10V control is intended to be linear. The output of a receiver should be “half” when it receives 5V control voltage. A dimmer at half may bring lamp to half intensity or output ar half it’s maximum voltage (in productions the response curve form control voltage to lamp intensity should be defined).
Note: Analogue controller which do not have buffered outputs can cause linearity of the controller to vary depending on the loading of the output.
Dimmers or receiving devices shall use connectors with male contacts (pins). Controllers or sending devices shall use connectors with female contacts (sockets). If suitable connectors are not available in both sexes, the same connector may be used on dimmers and controllers (typical 8-pin DIN).
Pinout of all control connectors shall be labeled adjacent to connector showing all pin assignments. Where possible, pin numbers should equal channel number and highest pin number should be used as signal common.
No voltages higher than 30V may be present at a sending or receiving connector. Power supply pins when present at connectors should be current limited. If a power supply is required, then the necessary voltage, current and polarity should be indicated.
0 to 10V cables can be almost any type of conductor or cable.
I have collected here information about common wirings used in 0 to 10V control devices. This information is collected from from ESTA E1.3 standard draft and from articles posted to news:rec.theatre.stagescraft newsgroup. So there is no guarantee that this information is 100% correct. If you don’t have the equipment documentation where you can check the right wiring then it is best to use a multimeter to check if the wirings below match your equipment.
There a two major “standards”:
Pin 1- 6 Channel 1-6 Pin 7 +V (dc power - typically 18-25V @ 100mA) Pin 8 OV (reference for signal and DC power return)
This is the recommended standard to use if you have choice. This type of connectors are sometimes called Bleecon connectors (“Bleecons”, by Belling Lee). The Bleecon is basically an 8 pin DIN plug and socket. The sockets will accept ordinary 8 pin DIN plugs, and also those with a locking ring, the advantage of the Bleecon plug is it’s easy pull to release lock mechanism.
This type of connectors are widely used on dimmer packs of six or less channels for analog control input. Power polarity tends to follow control polarity, so Strand supply -ve power here, everyone else supplies +ve power.
Pin 1 +V (dc power - typically 18-25V @ 100mA) Pin 2 OV (reference for signal and DC power return) Pin 3-8 Channel 1-6
Pin 1 is one marked pin 1:
7 6 3 8 1 5 2 4
looking from the solder side !
Pins 1-24 Channels 1-24 Pin 25 Signal common
Pins 1-48 Channels 1-48 Pins 49-50 Signal common
Pins 1-30 Channels 1-30 Pins 21-34 not used Pins 35-37 Signal common
There are some lighting equipments which use a 5 pin (180 degrees pin arragement) DIN connector for 0-10V control voltage. The typical channel setup is as follows:
Pin 1 = Channel 4 Pin 2 = 0V (ground) Pin 3 = Channel 1 Pin 4 = Channel 3 Pin 5 = Channel 2
Basically the channel arrangement idea is that the center pin (pin 2) is the ground pin and all other pins are the channel pins.
10V control voltage is also used for controlling indoor lighting systems. There are dimmers and dimmable fluorescent ballasts for this kind of applications available. The basic idea in this type of applications is similar to the theatrical lighting. Typically the control voltage input is electrically isolated from the dimmer or lighting fixture . The typical control voltage range in this kind of lighting applications is either 0-10V or 1-10V.
2009年11月26日 at 下午10:57分类:调光技术文章
Lighting is one of the most important backstage roles especially with music. If you go and see a band all you have is a few people standing still on a stage playing a guitar or two. After a couple of songs you are fed up of just listening. Now it is the role of the lighting designer to make the performance a lot more enjoyable, setting the tone of the songs with different colours, constantly keeping the audiences attention by changing what they can see.
Most of the strobocopes designed for commercial use have a external trigger connectors on the back of the strobocope. Those connectors are typically 6.3 mm jacks or XLR connectors. Sometimes there is one input and one output jacks so that many stroboscopes can be easily wired to one controler by just connecting the first stroboscope to controller and wiring next strobocope to the output of the first stroboscope etc.
Typical stroboscope inputs have following characteristics (may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer):
Other way how the stroboscope can work is flash on power off controlling. In this method when you apply the power to the stroboscope the stroboscope chargers it’s capacitor. And when the mains power is cut off the stroboscope flashes once. This constrolling method is useful if you want to connect a stroboscope to a light organ or to a light chaser. Some stroboscopes upport this method and some don’t.
The loads mentioned above are easy to run loads and can be dimmer with practically any light dimmer on the market.
The light belonging to this category are somewhat inductive loads and contain a transformer.To be able to dim the lights in this catebory you must have a dimmer which can handle inductive load and works very symmetricaly on both negative and positive halves of mains current (so no DC component on output to sature transformer). Using a dimmer not suitable for this kind of use might result strange operation, damaged dimmer or burned out transformer.
For light dimmer controlling there are two widely used industry standards: DMX-512 and analogue 0-10V controlling. Modern digital dimmers typically use standard DMX-512 interface, which is the digital interface bys standard for controlling all kinds of lighting systems from dimmers to intelligent moving lights.
The older 0-10V analogue standard us typically used by small lighting systems (single dimmer packs with 1-6 chanels typically).
The analogue control voltage range is 0-10V. 0V means that light is off, 10V meast that light is full on and the voltages between them mean different dimmed settings in between (more voltage means more light output).
The outpus of the light controllers are typically equipped with diodes which allow the voltege to come out of controller, but not going back to it. Diodes in controller outputs make it possible to connect multiple lighting boards in parallel and the highest voltage value wins the game.
Many small light dimmer pacs use 8 pin input connector for inputting the 0-10V control voltage to the dimmer.
There a two major “standards” for using this connector. Both of them are quite widely used, so be warned to check the wiring before making connections.
As used by Zero 88, Anytronics, Lightprocessor –
Pin 1- 6 Channel 1-6 Pin 7 +V (dc power - typically 18-25V @ 100mA) Pin 8 OV (reference for signal and DC power return)
This first one is the recommended standard to use if you have a choise.
As used by Pulsar / Clay Paky –
Pin 1 +V (dc power - typically 18-25V @ 100mA) Pin 2 OV (reference for signal and DC power return) Pin 3-8 Channel 1-6
The most typical instrument to control set of light dimmers is to use traditional light desk which includes set of slide potentiometers to control the brigness of the lights. Some light boards have also extra flash buttons (to turn on single channel full on with press of button) and other features like light chasers. More advanced boards can have memoryh for maultipel light settings (light scenes).
For syncing light to music syncing there are few ways to do that.
One way to do that is just use a traditional light board with some kind of chase programs and just tune the chase rate to match the beat of the music manually. That is propably the most common way to do that with tradidional light controlling desks. It is not noo hard to tune using one know to approximately match the lights flashig to the beat of the music and propably change that setting between the different pieces of music. You don’t even need to get the lights to match the music exactly, usually when you go close enough it gives a good effect and illusion that everything is synced. And if something special is needed, then the light operator manually reacts to the music. This is propably the most common way light the lights are operates at least with many smaller bands no with normal light light effects. With intelligent lighting usually the the operator has preprogrammed some predefined program patterns for the intelligent lights controlling and then just selects the right ones during the show and adjust the speeds of the programs to match the music.
There are some light controllers for mosly disco use which are designed to control the lights based on the music coming in. There are two marjor types of such sound to light controllers: light organs and music synced light chasers.
Light organs take the incoming sound (through sound input connector or built-in microphone), split it to different frequency bands (like bass, middle and high freencies) and use the output of each of the filters to control the turn on/off or dimming of individual lights. This kind of arrangement makes one light to respond to the level of bass sounds (drums, bass guitatrs.etc.), other to the middle frequencies (singer, guitar) and one for high frequencies (hihat,guitar). When those light outputs are equiped with different color lights, the result is a quite nice sound responding light show. This type of light effect was quite popular in old disco systems, but works also quite well with live bands.
Music synced light chasers take the incoming sound and try to separate the beat from it more or less well (usually by analyzing the bass frequencies in music to get the bass drum from there) to generate a clock signal to a light chaser circuit. The light chaser circuit is just a sequencer which runs though a certain set of light patterns so that it goes from one step to another every time it gets the clock pulse from the music sync circuit. Many music controlled light chasers have also basic run speed which they use if there is not music coming in so the lights do not stop even then totally and the controller can be used without music input. This kind of light controlling method is the most common arrangement used in disco light controllers used restaurants, discos and mobile DJ systems.
Many lighting desks designed for live musch stage light controlling have an audio input which gets a feed from the main audio desk. The best approach for sound operator is to feed the drum set sounds (typically a feed from the kick drum) to this light desk sound input to get it in sync with the music played. For accurate beat detection in “full” music, a manual beat synchronisation is usually required, because many music beat circuits do not work very well with full music. Most of the time however, it’s just the board operator’s sense of rhythm (or lack thereof) to get the light operate in nice ways in sync to the music.
Foggers typically work by vaporizing a special fog fluid which consists of pure water and few chemicals added to it to make the fog last longer and be more visible. The fogger fluid is vaporized inside the heating element of the fogger where the fogger fluip pump pumps it when fog is needed. The heating element is thermostat controlled and this thermostat is connected to the pump so that the pump will operate only when the heating element is hot enough properly vaporize the fogger fluid.
Foggers have many different kind of controlling interfaces and no industry wide standards for them. Basically this means that you practically always have to use the fogger controller provided by the fogger manufacturer to be able to control them unless the fogger has some industry standard light controlling interface available (there are 0-10V or DMX-512 interfaces on some expensive foggers, but not on the cheaper ones).
The simplest form of controllign the figger is a simple on/off remote controlling using a remote switch. For example LeMaitre MiniFog has a 6.3 mm mono jack for external control switch and the external switch just shorts the tip and shield of the 6.3 mm jack when the button is pressed. This button typically feeds the low operation voltage (12V?) to the pump inside the fogger if the button is pressed and the heating element is hot enough.
There are also wide variety of other controlling schemes around. There are foggers which use 6.3 mm stereo jack, 5-pin DIN jack, IEC style mains connector etc. sof the controlling of the fogger. The controlling iself can operate on low voltgae or at mains voltage.
Moving mirrors are used in disco lights to move the light to different directions. Most typical of this kind of constructions are rotating reflectors which consists of many small pieces of mirrors and are used to form multiple light beams (same ideas as in classic disco mirror ball).
This kind of construction is used in many light effects, for example moonflowers, where typically those small mirrors have also a color filter integrated to them. The traditional way to rotate this kind of mirror is a mains powered syncronous motors (fre rotations per minute). Those syncronous motors have tendency to start to rotate at random direction when the power is applied, so if the power is turned on and of based on the sound input (from microphone) a nice random rotation in both directions is seen. In some light effects the motor rotates a flat mirror, which just makes the light bouch to random directions.
For more advanced lighting effects the mirrors are typically moved by microcontroller controlled stepper motors. By using two stepper motors it is possible to have controlled movement in both X and Y directions, like in typical roboscanners. This kinf of intelligent lights are typically controlled using DMX-512 interface.
Typical color changer used with PAR36 pinspots is a color wheel which have four colors. This color wheel is typically rotated by a mains powered syncronous motor which makes it rotate at speedd of few rotations per minute. So the wheel rotaes when the color changer wheel gets power and stays on one color when no mains power is applied to it.
More advanced color changer used in theatres typically use DMX-512 controlling interface to tell the color changer which color filter to use.
Discolights and other quite small lighting instrument have typically a 9 mm mouting screw hole on their mounting hardware. The clamps are then crewed to the light and the lamp is then screwed to the supporting hardware (typically pipe or truss).
Standard ways of mounting: pipe mounted via an industry standard C clamp, pipe batten mounted using 2 inch U-bolts or wall mounted using the appropriate wall mounting fasteners.
The light mouted over places where people are oftern (like stages), security chains are used to make sure that the light does not drop to the floow (or someone’s head) if the clamp fials for some reason (mechanical failure or improperly fitted to the pipe).
Most people just think of a light as a bulb hanging from the end of a wire in the ceiling. The lights (or luminaires) we use come in many different shapes and sizes from long and thin to short and fat, and each type has its own use.
A luminaire consists of three basic parts:
It is the way these parts are arranged that decides the type of luminaire. The bulb provides the initial source of light that is sent in all directions. The reflector then reflects all the light rays into one direction. The job of the lens it to control the spread of light ie what sort of beam it is, and how it is focussed.
Sometimes luminaires do not have a lens and these are floods and they do just that, flood an area with light. If a luminaire has a lens it is called a Spot. If we use spots we can control the light coming from it. We do this, by control the size of the beam and the ‘focus’ (or blurryness) of the beam.
The beam out of a light is usally a fixed shape, either a circle or oval. We can control the shape even more by using barn doors or shutters, these allow us to straighten the edges of the beam.
In addition to the three basic components of a luminaire, you will usually find a facility for colour the light. We colour the light using coloured plastic (called Gels).
At home the average light bulb is 60 watts. In a theatre the average light bulb is 1000W (15 times stronger). In disco/stage lighting the typical lights are in power range of 200-500W. Because of this increase in power a lot more light is given off, but also a lot more heat and it is common for luminaires to become to hot to touch.
To use lighting to its full effect we need to use colour. There are only so many effects we can do with white light and it soon becomes boring. But we can use colour to bring the excitement back.
Incandescent lamps are the oldest form of electrical lighting and are still in widespread use. Incandescent lamps are thermal radiators. In an enclosed bulb filled with gas, an electric current is passed through the tungsten wire of the filament to make it glow. Apart from heat, they also produce light, but light accounts for only 5 to 10% of their output.
Conventional incandescent lamps get dimmer because vaporised tungsten from the filament is deposited as a dark coating on the inside of the glass bulb. In halogen lamps, this is prevented by adding halogens to the filler gas. The halogens ensure that the vaporised tungsten is returned to the filament. Halogen lamps are available for low-voltage operation (for which a transformer is needed) or for mains voltage as direct replacements for incandescent lamps.
Halogen lamps have a number of advantages over normal incandescent lamps, notably their brilliant light for attractive glittering effects, smaller dimensions, uniform bright light, longer lamp life and greater economy. Tungsten-halogen lamps perform a wide variety of tasks in projection, car headlights, operating theatre lighting, light guide technology and TV, film and stage lighting. The most powerful halogen lamp available is rated at 20,000 W.
Halogen lights have typically better effiency and smaller size than normal incandescent lamps.
A FLUORESCENT LAMP is a lamp in which a current passes through mercury vapor, generating ultraviolet energy. There is a phosphorous coating inside the bulb that transforms that ultraviolet energy to visible light. A fluorescent lamp is more energy efficient than standard incandescent lighting.
Fluorescent lamps are characterised by economy and extremely long life.They last considerably longer than incandescent lamps and consume much less electricity.
Fluorescent lamps are low-pressure-discharge lamps. An electrical field is produced between two electrodes in a gas-filled tube. This electrical field causes mercury atoms to radiate. Phosphors applied to the inside of the glass convert this radiation into visible light. As with all discharge lamps, these lamps require electronic or electromagnetic ballasts.
The low pressure mercury vapor arc in the tube emits lots of shortwave UV at 253.7 nanometers. This is the germicidal wavelength that erases EPROMS and does quite a number on the conjunctiva and the cornea of the eye. Most fluorescent tubes are coated on the inside with a phosphor to absorb this shortwave UV and emit visible light.
Fluorescent lights are not much used in disco/effect lighting except the UV fluorescent tubes. The most popular black light bulbs are 60 cm (20W) and 120 cm (36W or 40W) models which can be fitted to any normal fluorescent light fixture.
Black light tubes are designed to give out some components at the extreme “violet” end of the visible light spectrum as well as emissions not visible to the eye. This gives the “purple” color to that you see from a black light source. Blacklight fluorescent tubes are coated on the inside with a phosphor to absorb shortwave UV and emit longwave UV, usually around 360 nM. The glass is a dark violet glass known as “Woods glass”, which does a good job of passing longwave UV but blocking visible light. Some visible violet and a trace of visible blue gets through.
The longwave UV is what makes most fluorescent dyes, inks, paints, and pigments glow. Many of these substances also glow from visible violet and visible blue. Some of these even respond to other visible wavelengths! But it is mainly longwave UV that is responsible for these glowing from a fluorescent blacklight tube.
The deep purple coating is an absorber of far UV that prevents danger to the viewer of this light for entertainment purposes, and the “black light” was specifically pioneered for entertainment and educational purposes. The small amount of near UV is low enough in energy that it is not much more dangerous than visible light.
You would NOT wish to be exposed to pure mercury fluorescent light, however, which is what is used inside the tube ! Contrary to some popular opinion, a low pressure mercury arc does not produce a lot of longwave UV. Nearly all the longwave UV from a blacklight fluorescent tube is produced by the phosphor from shortwave UV. Omitting the phosphor would greatly reduce longwave UV output.
The incandescent blacklight is indeed a dark violet lightbulb. Yes, in fact the incandecent lamps give off UV light. Unfortunately an incandecent filament puts out very little UV lignt so the ratio of heat to UV light in these bulbs is very high. The violet filter passes the small amount of UV emitted by the filament, as well as most of the visible violet and some visible blue, which also excite most fluorescent paints, dyes, pigments, and inks. Most fluorescent colours don’t need UV to illuminate them. Blue light is just fine, although UV is better since it offers a better contrast between the background and the fluorescent paint. Most fluorescent colours don’t need UV to illuminate them. Blue light is just fine (for example “Congo Blue” filter), although UV is better since it offers a better contrast between the background and the fluorescent paint. If you want very good UV effects do need a real source of UV, because regular filament lamp just doesn’t produce enough UV to mention.
Some very deep red and most of the near-infrared from the filament also pass through the violet bulb. Incandescent blacklights have no mechanism to produce longwave UV from other forms of energy. They are inefficient at producing longwave UV and do not work nearly as well as the fluorescent type of blacklight.
In some cases a powerful theatrical light fitted with a suitable color filter can produce an usable black light fluorescent effect on some materials. Here is the list of some color filters which might be usable for this (I have not tried those, only seen those mentioned in rec.arts.theatre.stagecraft newsgroup):
Compact fluorescent lamps generate their light in the same way as fluorescent lamps. By bending the glass tube back on itself the lamps are made very compact. Many of compact fluorescent lights nowadays in use have ntegrated electronic ballast. These can be used as direct replacements for incandescent lamps. They consume 80% less energy and last ten times as long. Energy-saving compact fluorescent lamps can be usually fitted straight into lampholders designed to take standard incandescent lamps.
Compact fluorescent lights are not used in effect lighting. They can’t be flashed quicly (turn-on takes always some time and micth not wothstand flashing). Compact fluorescent lights are not generally disgned to be dimmed, so connecting such lamp to a dimmer can cause damages to either to dimmer ot the compact fluorescent bulb.
High-pressure discharge lamps like for example metal halide lamps are used mainly in shop windows, large-format overhead projectors, powerful slide projection, LCD video projectotion and high power light effects such as moving light fixtures. Metal halide lamps are valued for their high luminous flux, impressive economy or good colour rendering.
The light is generated directly by an arc discharge. Electrical discharges between the electrodes cause the various filler materials in the discharge to luminesce. The light from metal halide lamps is generated by an electrical arc discharge in an atmosphere of mercury vapour and halogenides of rare earths.
The lamps need special electronic ballasts for current limitation and ignition purposes. The balast need to be selected according the lamp type used. Metal halide lamps are quite expensive compared to other lamps, but they have better effiency than normal bulbs and last longer.
Par stands forParabolic Aluminum Reflector. The PAR lamp contains the reflector, filament, and lens. Hence, the lamp you choose detrmines the brightness and beam spread. Pars come in many sizes and wattage ratings as well as quartz and halogen types. These types of lamps will fit in many types of fixtures.
All PARCAN lamps produce a soft edged oval shaped pool of light. The CANisters are typically available in steel or aluminum. CANisters are fitted using yoke. The color gel is connected to color frame in front of the CAN.
Due to their simplicity and low cost, these are the most popular fixtures for illuminating a performance area such as musicians on stage, dance, festivals, shows. etc. In band lighting, the PAR 64 lamp is the most dominant breed of lantern used. The name comes from the Parabolic Aluminised Reflector, which tells you what youve got in it, and 64, which tells you how big it is (in eighths of an inch!). “Par Can” is short for “PARabolic reflector lamp in a CANister”. Most road shows that use Par’s for their main source of instruments because they are inexpensive and can take hard use.
Popular lamp types with built-in reflector:
Lamp Diameter Beam spread Power Base Use / comments (inches) (degrees) (watts) PAR 36 4.3 5x5 30 Blade Used in pinspots, typically 6V 30W PAR 38 4.75 30,60 75,150,300 Screw PAR 38 4.75 12 60 Screw Special model (Osram PAR-EC special) PAR 46 5.75 ? 200 Blade PAR 56 7 11x25 300,500 Blade PAR 64 8 11x25 500,1000 Blade Very common light in stage lighting
Here are some tips to identify different PAR lamp types:
PAR lamps (except PAR 36 and some specila version of other version) operate typically on the mains voltage which is 120V or 230V depending on the country. In PARCANs the bulbs are just directly wired to the incoming mains wire. PARCAN can be easily dimmed with practically any light dimmer.
PAR 36 pinspots are are kind of exception to other PAR lamps. Those PAR 36 bulbs typically operate on 6V AC low voltage which is usually generated by a transformer inside the lamp fixture. The transformers in this kind of lights are typically designed so that they have an internal overtemperature fuse (if the transformer is overloaded it will heat up, the fuse burns and you will toss out the lamp fixture or change transformer).
Some people say that PAR 36 fixture with transformer can not be used with a dimmer as it uses a transformer to supply the correct voltage. It is true, that using those lamps with a baddly designed dimmer might result a quicly burnt out transformer, but with proper dimmer those can really be dimmer (propably with a little loss of lamp transformer life propably because the transformer runs a little but hotter than normal when dimmed). The danger of overheating the transformer is there with PAR lamps with some dimmers and with some other poorly designed light controllers equipments (some light sequencers can generate uneven amount of positive and negative halves of mains voltage on high speed rates and this can eventually heat up the transformer quicly).
PAR 36 lamp originaltes from sealed light beam lamps used in some as aircraft landing lights and in some heavy automobiles. PAR-36 sealed light beam (General Electric Model 4596 – Aircraft Landing light) operates at around 30 volts. The 4596 is rated at 250 watts (10 degree beam). Apart from original aircraft use those lights are sometimes used with mains voltage so that there are many of such bulbs wired in series.
Diameter Beam spread Power Base Use/comments (mm) (degrees) R39 39 80 30 W Screw R60 60 80 25-100 Screw R80 80 80 40-100 Screw Concentra 80 deg 60-75W Also known as R (reflector) lamp, type R80 Concentra 30 deg 60W Special models (Osram has 30 degree models)
Common R (reflector) lamp produces light by applying current through a tungsten filament until it glows. An R lamp is made of a one-piece, glass bulb coated on the inside with a reflective material. Lamp is filled with the inert gas argon to help retard the evaporation of the tungsten filament.
PAR (parabolic aluminized reflector) lamp produces light by applying current through a tungsten filament until it glows. A PAR lamp has a reflector made of thicker, heat-resistant glass coated on the inside with a reflective material and sealed to a separate glass lens. Lamp is filled with the inert gas argon to help retard the evaporation of the tungsten filament.
A halogen PAR lamp is nearly identical to a common PAR lamp except that its filament is enclosed in a small, quartz capsule that contains halogens along with argon. This filament can operate at higher temperatures than one in a common PAR lamp. This increases the efficacies of halogen PAR lamps. The average rated life of these lamps ranges from 2000 to 2500 h.
Common R and PAR lamps are the most popular lamps used for floodlighting and accent lighting. A 75-W common R lamp has an efficacy of approximately 11 lumens per watt (LPW), and a 75-W common PAR lamp has an efficacy of approximately 10 LPW. Both efficacies fall below the 12.5 LPW required by EPACT for 75-W reflector lamps. The average rated life for these lamps is typically 2000 hours (h).
Spread Diameter Power Voltage PAR36 5x5 110mm 30W 6V used in pinspots, 12V available Multimirror 30,12deg 51mm 20-75W 12V, also called MR-16, cool beam Minimultimir 10,25? 35mm 10-20W 12V cool beam
Beam spread definition: The angle where the light intensity has decreased to half than what is in the center of the beam.
Connectors for cool beam multimirror bulbs (51 mm) use G 6,35 mm connector (two pins at 6.35 mm distance). The smaller buls typically use 4 base (two pins at 4 mm distance).
2009年11月26日 at 下午10:36分类:调光技术文章
Copyright by Tomi Engdahl 1997-2000
Index
Some light dimmer history
How light dimmers work ?
Typical 120V AC dimmer circuit
1 kW 230V AC light dimmer circuit
Safety issues on building the circuits
Tips on selecting components
Radio frequency interference details
Power harmonics caused by dimmers
Buzzing problems with dimmers
Dimming inductive loads
How touch dimmers work ?
Advanced dimming systems
Reverse phase control
Variable transformer as dimmer
Other not so good ideas for dimming
European EMC requirements on dimmers
I disclaim everything. The contents of the articles below might be totally inaccurate, inappropriate, or misguided. There is no guarantee as to the suitability of said circuits and information for any purpose whatsoever other than as a self-training aid.
Light dimming is based on adjusting the voltage which gets to the lamp. Light dimming has been possible for many decades by using adjustable power resistors and adjustable transformers. Those methods have been used in movie theatres, stages and other public places. The problem of those light controlling methods have been that they are big, expensive, have poor efficiency and they are hard to control from remote location.
The power electronics have proceeded quickly since 1960. Between 1960-1970 thyristors and triacs came to market. Using those components it was quite easy to make small and inexpensive light dimmers which have good efficiency. Electronics controlling also made possible to make them easily controllable from remote location. This type of electronic light dimmers became available after 1970 and are nowadays used in very many locations like homes, restaurants, conference rooms and in stage lighting.
Solid-state light dimmers work by varying the “duty cycle” (on/off time) of the full AC voltage that is applied to the lights being controlled. For example, if the voltage is applied for only half of each AC cycle, the light bulb will appear to be much less bright than when it get the full AC voltage, because it get’s less power to heat the filament. Solid-state dimmers use the brightness knob setting to determine at what point in each voltage cycle to switch the light on and off.
Typical light dimmers are built using thyristors and the exact time when the thyristor is triggered relative to the zero crossings of the AC power is used to determine the power level. When the the thyristor is triggered it keeps conducting until the current passing though it goes to zero (exactly at the next zero crossing if the load is purely resistive, like light bulb). By changing the phase at which you trigger the triac you change the duty cycle and therefore the brightness of the light.
Here is an example of normal AC power you get from the receptacle (the picture should look like sine wave):
... ... . . . . . . . . ------------------------------------ 0V . . . . . . . . ... ...
And here is what gets to the light bulb when the dimmer fires the triac on in the middle of AC phase:
... ... | . | . | . | . ------------------------------------ 0V | . | . | . | . ... ...
As you can see, by varying the turn-on point, the amount of power getting to the bulb is adjustable, and hence the light output can be controlled.
The advantage of thyristors over simple variable resistors is that they (ideally) dissipate very little power as they are either fully on or fully off. Typically thyristor causes voltage drop of 1-1.5 V when it passes the load current.
A Silicon Controlled Rectifier is one type of thyrister used where the power to be controlled is unidirectional. The Triac is a thyrister used where AC power is to be controlled.
Both types are normally off but may be triggered on by a low current pulse to an input called the gate. Once triggered on, they remain on until the current flowing through the main terminals of the device goes to zero.
Both SCRs and Triacs are 4 layer PNPN structures. The usual way an SCR is described is with an analogy to a pair of cross connected transistors – one is NPN and the other is PNP.
+------+ + >------------+ LOAD +----------------+ +------+ | | E | PNP |---+-------< IG(-) C /| | | | | |/ C Gate IG(+) >-----+---| NPN | E | | - >------------------------------------------+
If we connect the positive terminal of a supply to say, a light bulb, and then to the emitter of the PNP transistor and its return to the emitter of the NPN transistor, no current will flow as long as the breakdown voltage ratings of the transistor are not exceeded because there is no base current to either.
However, if we provide some current to the base of the NPN (IG(+)) transistor, it will turn on and provide current to the base of the PNP transistor which will turn on providing more current to the NPN transistor. The entire structure is now in the on state and will stay that way even when the input to the NPN’s base is removed until the power supply goes to 0 and the load current goes to 0.
The same scenario is true if we reverse the power supply and use the IG(-) input for the trigger.
A Triac works basically in a similar manner but the polarity of the Gate can be either + or – during either half cycle of an AC source. Typically the trigger signals used for triggering triacs are short pulses.
A typical incandescent lamp take power and uses it to heat up a filament until it will start to radiate light. In the process about 10% of the energy is converted to visible light. When the lamp is first turned on, the resistance of the cold filament can be 29 times lower than it’s warm resistance. This characteristic is good in terms of quick warmup times, but it means that even 20 times the steady-state current will be drawn for the first few milliseconds of operation. Lamp manufacturers quote a typical figure for cold lamp resistance of 1/17 th of the operational resistance, although inrush currents are generally only ten times the operational current when such things as cable and supply impedance are taken into account. The semiconductors, wiring, and fusing of the dimmer must be designed with this inrush current in mind. The inrush current characteristic of incandescent (tungsten filament) lamps is somewhat similar to the surge characteristic of the typical thyristors made for power controlling, making them a quite good match. The typical ten times steady state ratings which apply to both from a cold start allow many triacs to switch lamps with current ratings close to their own steady state ratings.
Because lamp filament has a finite mass, it take some time (depending on lamp size) to reach the operating temperature and give full light output. This delay is perceived as a “lag”, and limtis how quicly effect lighting can be dimmed up. In theatrical application those problems are reduced using preheat (small current flows through lamp to keep it warm when it is dimmed out).
The ideal lamp would produce 50% light output at 50% power input. Unfortunately, incandescents aren’t even close that. Most require at least 15% power to come on at all, and afterwards increase in intensity at an exponential rate.
To make thing even more complicated, the human eye perceives light intensity as a sort of inverse-log curve. The relation of the the phase control value (triac turn on delay after zero cross) and the power applied to the light bulb is very non-linear. To get around those problems, most theatrical light dimmer manufacturers incorporate proprietary intensity curves in their control circuits to attempt to make selected intensity more closely approximate perceived intensity.
The following circuit is based on information from Repair FAQs: http://www.repairfaq.org/
This is the type of common light dimmer widely available at hardware stores and home centers. The circuit is a basic model for light dimmer for 120V AC voltages. This basic design can handle light bulbs at power range of around 30W to few hundred watts (depends on construction).
Black o-----------------+------------+-----------+ | | | | R1 | | 220 K /<-+ | | | | | | | | | +--+ | | | | | R2 / | C1 _|_ 47 K | .047 uF --- / __|__ TH1 | | _/_ SC141B | +---|>| / | 200 V | | |<|--- | | C2 _|_ D1 | | .062 uF --- Diac | | | | Red o-----------------+---CCCCCC---+-----------+ L1 40 T #18, 2 layers 1/4" x 1" ferrite core
The purpose of the pot P1 and capacitor C2 in a diac/triac combination is just to delay the firing point of the diac from the zero crossing. The larger the resistance (P1+R2) feeding the capacitor C2, the longer it takes for the voltage across the capacitor to rise to the point where the diac D1 fires turning on the triac TH1. Capacitor C1 and inductor L1 make a simple radio frequency interference filter. Without it the circuit would generate quite much interference because firing of the triac in the middle of the AC phase causes fast rising current surges. The triac TH1 can withstand 6A of continuous current when properly cooled, so the circuit would be able to handle around 300-500W of power when a small heatsink is fitted to TH1. If TH1 is not cooled, the maximum power rating is probably around 150W.
Component list:
C1 47 nF 250V C2 62 nF 100V R1 220 kohm linear potentiometer (well insulated) R2 47 kohm 1/2W D1 Diac (for example BR100-03 TH1 SC141B or similar (200V, 6A, Igt/lj<50/<200mA, TO220 case) L1 Homemade coil of 40 turns of #18 wire wired on two layers on 1/4"x1" ferrite core
While the dimmer is designed for incandescent or heating loads only, these will generally work to some extent with universal motors as well as fluorescent lamps down to about 30 to 50 percent brightness. Long term reliability is unknown for these non-supported applications.
I also saw a quite similar dimmer circuit posted to sci.electronics.design newsgroup one day (posted by Sam Goldwasser). This is the type of common light dimmer (e.g., replacements for standard wall switches) widely available at hardware stores and home centers. This circuit uses slightly different component values than the previous one and does not have any radio frequency interference filtering. This one contains just about the minimal number of components to work at all!
Black o--------------------------------+--------+ | | | | | R1 | | 185 K /<-+ | v CW | | __|__ TH1 | _/_ Q2008LT +---|>| / | | |<|--' | C1 _|_ Diac | .1 uF --- (part of | S1 | TH1) | Black o------/ ---------------------+-----------+
S1 is part of the control assembly which includes R1. The reostat, R1, varies the amount of resistance in the RC trigger circuit. The enables the firing angle of the triac to be adjusted throughout nearly the entire length of each half cycle of the power line AC waveform. When fired early in the cycle, the light is bright; when fired late in the cycle, the light is dimmed.
Component list:
C1 100 nF 100V R1 185 kohm linear potentiometer TH1 Q2008LT (200V 8A triac with built-in diac in TO220 case)
The circuit should be able to handle loads up to aorun 150W without a heatsink. If a large heatsink is provided for TH1, the circuit should theoretically be able to handle loads up to almost 1 kW, but I would not try more than 800W.
Due to some unavoidable (at least for these cheap dimmers) interaction between the load and the line, there is some hysteresis with respect to the dimmest setting: It will be necessary to turn up the control a little beyond the point where it turns fully off to get the light to come back on again.
Brief description of circuit of circuit operation:
The delay from mains zero crossing to triack triggering is generated using circuit formed with R1, C1 and diac. The adjustable resistor R1 resistance controls the speed at which C1 charges from incoming power. Higher the resistance, longer it takes C1 to charge to the specific voltage. When the voltage at C1 goes to the trigger voltage (usually around 30V) of the diac, the diac starts to conduct, which discharges the charge from C1 through diac to the triac gate causing it to trigger. The result of this the voltage at C1 goes to zero volts (very near to it), and the triac starts to conduct. Triac conducting causes power to flow though the circuit to the load (light bulb). The voltage over triac is almost zero (in practice around 1V or less), so the capacitor does not get charged as long as the triac conducts. The triac conducts as long as there is enough current flowing though it, in this case until to the next mains voltage zero crossing. At that point the operation starts again from charging of C1.
The following circuit is HELVAR 1 kW light dimmer dimmer circuit published at Bebek Electronics magazine. The circuit is a quite typical TRIAC based dimmer circuit with no fancy special features. The triggering circuit is a little bit improved compared to the 120V AC above design. This circuit is only designed to operate with non-inductive loads like standard light bulbs. The circuit is designed to dim light bulbs in 50-1000W range.
o-----LAMP--------+------------+--+------+---+--------+ | | | | | | | P1 | P2 | | | 500 K /<-+ 1M /<--+ | | LIN | | | | | 230V | +---------+ | AC IN | | | | R1 / | C1 _|_ 2k2 | A2 150 nF --- / R2 __|__ TH1 400V | | 6k8 _/_ TIC226D | +-///---+---|>| G / | A1 | | | |<|---- | | C2 _|_ C3 _|_ D1 | | 150nF --- 33nF --- ER900/ | | 400V | | BR100-03 | | | | | o----FUSE---------+---CCCCCC---+---------+------------+ L1 40..100 uH
Potentiometer P1 in this circuit is used for controlling the dimmer setting. The trimmer P2 is used for setting the dimming range (how much light can be dimmed maximally). When the circuit is tuned, the P2 should be adjusted so that then P1 is in it’s maximum resistance setting (light most dimmed) the light bulb is just dimmed completely out. This adjustment makes sure that the dimmer circuit dims smoothly from zero to maximum setting. If P2 is tuned to too much dimmed preset position, the circuit does not dim nicely up from light off setting or the operation when P1 is in it’s maximum value is unpredictable. If you have adjusted P2 to too low value, you just can’t dim the light bulb completely off (in some times this can be an intentional setting, for example in theatrical lighting where preheat is used).
Component list:
C1 150 nF 400V capacitor (preferably X rated capacitor) C2 150 nF 400V C3 33 nF 400V D1 ER900 or BR100-03 diac P1 500 kohm linear potentiometer P2 1 Mohm trimmer R1 2.2 kohm 1/2W R2 6.8 kohm 1/2W TH1 TIC226D triac (400V, 8A, Igt/lh<10/<60mA) L1 Filtering coil 40-100 uH, 4.5A or greater current handling capacity FUSE 5A fast
When building thw circuit remeber to put a small heatsink to the triac TH1, because without proper cooling it can’t withstand the full dimmer 1 kW power (around 4.4A of current). If you don’t put the heatsink, the maximum available power from the circuit is around 300W. The coil L1 must be able to withstand continuous current of at least 4.5A and it can have any value between 40 and 100 microhenries. For C1 I would recommend a good quality 150 nanofarad capacitor designed for mains power applications (propably an X-rated capacitor), because a low quality capacitor does not withstand in this kind of place for too long time.
Because light dimmers are directly connected to mains you must make sure that no part of the circuit can be touched when it is operating. This can be best dealt by building the dimmer circuit to small plastic box. Remeber to use potentiometer with plastic shaft and install it so that no potentiometer metal parts are exposed to user.
Remeber to make circuit board so that the traces have enough current carrying capacity for the maximum load. Make sure that you have enough separation between PCB traces to widthstand mains voltage. Remeber to install correct size fuse for the circuit. The fuse shield be ast acting (F) if you want to give any protection to TRIAC (do not use FF or T types). Make sure that all components can handle the voltages they face in the circuit. For 230V operation use at least 400V triac (600V better). The capacitor which is connected between the dimmer circuit mains wires should be a capacitor which is rated for this kind of applications (those are marked with letter X on the case).
Remeber to use coil type which can handle the full load current without overheating or saturating. Use capacitors with enough high voltage rating. Make sure that the TRIAC has enough ventilation so that it does not overheat at full load. For safety reasons it is a very good idea to put an overheating protector to the light dimmer circuit to protect the dimmer circuit against dangerous overheating caused by poor ventilation or slight overloading, because a fuse does not provide a good protection in this kind of cases.
Even though the light can be completely turned off using triac or thyristors, those components are not generally considered to be reliable enough to be used as light switches which remove the dangerous voltages from the light circuit when needed. In small light dimmer there is typically a switch which is built into the light dimmer control potentiometer. In large dimming systems the switching is typically done using a separate contactor or relay.
Triacs and thyristors are sensitive to overcurrents. When dimming normal light bulbs, short circuits caused when filament burns are quite probable. For this reason, light dimmers must have their own fuse which protect it against failures in this kind of situation.
Thyristors have a defined overcurrent handling capacity and the fuse must be selected so that it burns before the thyristor in overcurrent situation. This typically means that the thyristor/triac must have a current rating of 2..5 times bigger that the rating of the fuse in order to be sure that the fuse burns before thyristor/triac in case of short circuit. The fuse type must be also fast enough to burn in this case before the thyristor/triac. In some cases it might be necessary to use special fuses to be able to protect the components effectively.
The thyristor must have a high enough surge current rating also for normal operation. For example in case of normal light bulb dimming of a light bulb with cold filament is turned on at 90 degrees after zero crossing (means at maximum line voltage peak), the peak current can be 20 times bigger than the nominal current of the lamp.
The modern thyristor (Triac or SCR) dimmer has one fairly severe drawback in its performance in that it dims by switching on the current to the load part-way through each mains cycle. Cutting the leading smooth-part off a mains cycle produces a current with a very rapid turn-on time which generates both mains distortions and EMI. Chokes are included in dimmers to slow down the rapid switch-on (rise time) of the chopped current. The longer the rise time the less EMI and mains distortion produced.
Turn on of the triac in the middle of the phase causes fast voltage and current changes. A typical thyristor/triac starts to fully conduct at around 1 microsecond time after triggering, so the current change is very fast if it not limited in any way. Those fast voltage and current changes cause high frequency interference going to mains wiring unless there are suitable radio frequency interference (RFI) filter built into the circuit. The corners in the waveform effectively consist of 50/60Hz plus varying amounts of other frequencies that are multiples of 50/60Hz. In some cases the interference goes up to 1..10Mhz frequencies and even higher. The wiring in your house acts as an antenna and essentially broadcasts it into the air. Cheap bad quality light dimmers don’t have adequate filtering and they cause easily lots of radio interference.
Dimmer circuits typically use coils that limit limit the rate of rise of current to that value which would result in acceptable EMI. Typical filtering in light dimmers causes the current rise time (current rises from 10% to 90%) to be in range of 30..50 microseconds. This gives acceptable results in typical dimmer applications in home (typically this limitation is made using 40..100 uH coil).
If the dimmers are used in places where dimmer is a serious problem for sensitive sound equipments (theatres, TV-studios, rock concerts etc.) a slower current rise time would be preferred. Typically the current rise time in light dimmer packs made for stage applications have a current rise speed of around 100..350 microseconds. If noise is a big problem (TV studios etc.), even slower current rise times are sometimes asked. Those current rise times up to 1 millisecond can be achieved with special dimmers or suitable extra coil fitted in series with the dimmer.
The coil itself does not typically solve the whole problem because of the self-capacitance of the inductor: they typically resonate below 200 kHz and look like capacitors to disturbances above the resonance frequency. That’s why there must be also capacitors to suppress the interference at higher frequencies.
If your dimmer circuit cause interference, you can try to filter out the interference by adding a small capacitor (typically 22nF to 47 nF) in parallel with the dimmer circuit as near as possible to the electronics inside the circuit as possible. Keep in mind to use a capacitor which is rated for this kind of applications (use capacitors marked with X). Keep in mind that the filter capacitor and it’s wiring make a resonance circuit with certain resonance frequency (typically around 3.6 MHz with 0.1 uF capacitor). The capacitor does not work well as filter with the frequencies higher than the resonance frequency of the circuit.
All phase control dimmers are non-linear loads. A non-linear load is one where current is not in proportion to voltage. The non-linear load on dimming systems is caused by the fact that current is switched on for only part of the line cycle by a phase control dimming system. This non-linear load creates harmonic distortion on the service feeder.
Harmonics are currents that occur at multiples of the power line voltage frequency. In Europe where line frequency is 50 Hz the 2nd harmonic frequency is 100 Hz; the 3rd harmonic is 150 Hz, and so on. In North America where line frequency is 60 Hz the 2nd harmonic frequency is 120 Hz; the 3rd harmonic is 180 Hz, and so on.
Excess harmonic currents cause conductors and the steel cores of transformers and motors to heat. Odd-order harmonic currents (specifically the 3rd harmonic) add together in the neutral conductor of 3 phase power distribution systems. The 3rd order harmonic current present on the neutral is the arithmetic sum of the harmonic current present on the three phase conductors (this also applies to the 9th, the 15th and so on harmonics). Harmonics could theoretically elevate the neutral current to 3.0 times what is present on a phase conductor. With typical phase control dimming system connected to three pahse feed, the harmonics normally elevate neutral current to about 1.37 times phase current. If the wires are not properly rated for this, neutral conductor overheating or unexplained voltage drops can occur in large dimming systems.
Sometimes the heating of the distribution trasformer can be a problem, because transformers are rated for undistorted 50 Hz or 60 Hz load currents. When load currents are non-linear and have substantial harmonic content, they cause considerably more heating than the same undistorted current. In heavily dimmed system, you might not be able to ultilize more than around 70 % of the rated transformer power rating because of harmonic induced heating. Additionally, transformers used to feed dimming systems are subjected to stress because of cold lamp inrush currents (can be up to 25 times normal current). Inrush currents and harmonics can drastically reduce the service life of the service transformer.
Eliminating the effects of harmonic currents in large light dimmer systems normally requires oversizing neutral conductors and derating the service transformer.
In a normal low power light dimmer case you don’t have to woryr much about the harmonics and transformer loads, because the light load of few hundred watts is clearly just a small fraction of the total transformer load.
Each good dimmer has a filter choke inside. Those chokes help to filter out electrical noise that often causes hum to be picked up in sound system and musical instrument pick-ups. The slower the current rise is, the less noise is picked by sound system.
The chokes also help to eliminate ‘lamp singing’ that can cause audible noise to come from the lighting fixtures. Lamps with power rating of 300W or more tend to more or less acoustic noise when dimmed. If this acoustic noise is a problem can be removed by adding a series coil which limits the current rise time to around 1 millisecond.
In providing those filtering functions, the chokes themselves can generate a slight buzz. Fast current changes in the coil can make the coil wiring and core material easily vibrate which causes buzzing noise. A little bit of buzzing is normal with filtered dimmers. If the buzz from dimmer can be a problem it is recommended that the dimmer is placed in the area where this buzz will not be a problem.
As far as the ‘bulb singing’ concerned, a bulb consists of a series of supports and, essentially, fine coils of wire. When the amount of current flow abruptly changes the magnetism change can be much stronger than it is on a simple sine wave. Hence, the filaments of the bulb will tend to vibrate more with a dimmer chopping up the wave form, and when the filaments vibrate against their support posts, you will get a buzz. If you have buzzing, it’s always worth trying to replace the bulb with a different brand. Some cheap bulb brands have inadequate filament support, and simply changing to a different brand may help.
Buzzing bulbs are usually a sign of a “cheap” dimmer. Dimmers are supposed to have filters in them. The filter’s job is to “round off” the sharp corners in the chopped waveform, thereby reducing EMI, and the abrupt current jumps that can cause buzzing. In cheap dimmers, they’ve economized on the manufacturing costs by cost-reducing the filtering, making it less effective.
In very high power dimming systems the wiring going to lighting can also cause buzzing. The fast current makes the electrical wiring to vibrate a little bit and if the wire is installed so that the vibration can be transferred to some other material then the buzzing could be heard. The buzzing caused by the vibration of the wiring is only problem in very high power systems like theatrical lighting with few kW of lights connected to the same cable. Better filtered dimmers can reduce the problem because the filter makes the current changes slower so the wires make less noise.
Because of the way all dimmers deliver power at settings other than full brightness, the filaments inside a light bulb may vibrate when lighting is dimmed. This filament vibration causes the hum. To silence the fixture, a slight change in the brightness setting will usually eliminate bulb noise. The most effective way to quiet the fixture is to replace the light bulb.
There are numerous ways that dimmer noise can get into audio systems and it’s largely trial and error in determining what in particular is causing your problem and hence how to fix it. The principle ways are either back up the mains or induced into your audio equipment or cables.
What you hear typically in audio system is common mode noise on the hot and neutral, the spike of turn-on of the scr. The higher the rise time of the current in the dimmer, more noise is sent to the mains wiring. So well filtered dimmer will generate less noise problems.
Reduce the possibility of it coming up the mains by taking a totally separate mains supply from the lighting, if possible get a totally separate power socket (or sockets) run in for sound from wherever the electricity board intake is. If this is not possible, then an isolation transformer stops quite much of the noise on the secondary side (better with shield between coils). So put the sound system on the isolation transformer and tie to earth (ground) almost no problems. This assume that sound wiring is correct, especially shielding is done well and ground loop are avoided.
To reduce the possibility of interference induced to the audio cables, run all non speaker level audio cables as balanced lines (or certainly all of any length). You might have to buy balancing transformers if your kit isn’t balanced already. Also keep them as far away physically from any lighting cable runs as you can. Make sure that your system does hot have any harmful ground loops. Make sure none of your audio kit is anywhere near the dimmer racks.
With many cheap dimmers, the lights “Pop On” rather than dim up smoothly. This problem is usually related to the construction of the dimmer electronics. One technique used in some cheap dimmers to allow dimming up smoothly is to place another potentiometer (trimmer) across the control potentiometer. That trimmer potentiometer is set so that the dimmer works smoothly:
Continue until minimum voltage/current is supplied to lamps (filaments do not seem to glow at all). When everything is properly adjusted, the dimmer circuit will nicely dim up from the lowest setting up to maximum brightness.
If you want to make a multichannel lighting desk, you might sometimes winder if such nit can be built from cheap household dimmers. Unfortunately most cheap household dimmers are no use for stage lighting. The limitations in this kind of use came from performance, power rating, reliabity and interferences.
Typically the cheapest dimmer won’t fade up smoothly from zero, but come on suddenly at about 20%. You can fade down smoothly, but once they go off you have to go back up to 20% to make them come on. There are some dimmers which perform better that other.
The cheapest household dimmers are typically not well filtered, so the interference caused by a multichannel dimming board built in this way can easily cause a sound system to buzz.
Then in many cases the power rating of household dimmers can be a problem. Usually the household dimmers have a power rating of around 300W, which is not enough for any powerful stage light which can easily be 500W in power.
Cheap household dimmers do not track with each other well. This means that at the same setting, the lamps on one circuit will appear to be twice as bright as those on the other circuit.
Normal light dimmers are designed to only dim non-lunductive loads like light bulbs and electric heaters. Normal light dimmers are not suitable to dim inductive loads like transformers, fluorescent lamps, neon lamps, halogen lamps with transformers and electric motors. There are special dimmers available for those applications.
If you connect inductive loads to the dimmer the dimmer might not work as expected (for example does not dim that load properly) and can even be damaged by the voltage surges generated by the inductive load when current changed radiply. Another problem is the phase shift between the voltage and current cause by the inductance. If you use a normal simple light dimmer which is just in series with the wire going to the load, this will cause that the dimmer circuit will not wirk properly with highly inductive loads. Special dimmers which have a separate controlling electronics connected to both live and neutral wire and then the triac which controls the current to the load usually work much bettter with inductive loads.
Often when inductive loads cause problems on normal dimmers, you can eliminate said problems by patching an incandescent “ballast” load in parallel with the inductive load. Usually 100W is enough for many inductive loads. Remeber that indictive loads can hum quite noticably when dimmed and the transformers can heat more because of increased harmonics content in the power coming to them.
Fully loaded halogen transformers usually dim quite well. If you are planning to dim halogen light transformers, try only dim traditional transformes, because toroidal core transformer do not usully dim well. Most of the cheap halogen light transformers belong to this category as well as the transformer in for example PAR36 pinspot lights. For this kind of transformer it is necessary that the current after the dimmer is still symmetric, so that there is no DC component formed to the transformer which can cause the transformer cire to aturate (and lead to overload and finaly destruction of transformer). Some of the cheapest light dimmers might not be very good on symmetry, but good quality light dimmers designed for also inductive loads should not have symmetry problems.
When dimming transformers with in any way questionable type do dimmer for inductive loads, it is a good idea to put a fuse in series with the transformer primary so that it will blow when transfromer tries to get too much power from the line. This will protect the transformer from overheating which might be caused because of transformer core saturation (which might be caused by small DC bias caused by not very well operating dimmer). A proper fuse will save transformers from burning out.
Anyway a normal transformers which feed light loads are dimmable with good quality dimmer which can handle at least some amount of inductive load usually without much problems. Anyway it should be mentioned that when a transformer is dimmed in this way, it can heat somewhat more than in normal operation (full power without dimming). Other thing worth to mention is that when a tranformer is dimmed, it usually produces noticably more audible noise than in normal operation (noise depends on used transformer).
If your halogen light system uses an electronic transformer then you must very carefully check if it can be dimmed. Some of the electronic transformers are made dimmable and work well with traditional light dimmers. The ones which are not ment to be dimmed can be damaged by the dimming and even damage your dimmer.
If you try to dim fluorescent light on normal dimmer you have to turn the dimmer full on to make the light to turn on and you can only dim it down only down to 30-50% brightness. For anythign less than this you will need a special dimmers and special fluorescent fitting.
Typical dimmer packs will supply power to motors and make them run, but the dimmers aren’t designed for it. Some dimmers can be damaged by connecting inductive loads to them. And when the triac fails half-wave it takes the motor out too. A good idea to protect motor failures is to use a fuse sized for the motor load in series with the motor. This fuse will propably burn before motor is damaged if it is sized correctly.
Light dimmers designed for inductive loads work quite well with universal” or AC/DC type motors. Typically, these have brushes and are used in electric drills, vacuum cleaners, electric lawn edgers etc. With this kind of motors a proper dimmer works well.
The motors used in electronics fans are quite likely induction motor which are not very well controllable. Those motors in most fans are square-law devices, most of the speed control will be at the end of the dial but that would be true with any control. The “dimmers” designed for ceiling fan speed control work quite well and also some normal light dimmers designed for inductive loads.
If the dimmer approach not satisfactry, then remeber that electric motors are usually is best controlled by a small variac, tapped ransformer, rheostat, series light bulbs, etc. which do not mess up the sinusoidal waveform. Even this method does not help in controlling a syncronous motor, which always tries to rotate at the same speed suncronous to mains power.
Electronic loads like switching power supplies are not generally designed to be dimmed. If you take for example a typical swithcing power supply to a normal light dimmer, trying to do that might result to cause damages to the dimmer and/or the power supply itself. The power supply might get damaged because it has never been designed to operate on other waveforms than quite much sinewave (other waveforms can cause current spikes). The dimmer can be damaged by the high current surge what a switching power supply takes when the triac on dimmer starts to conduct in the middle of the phase.
The “electronic transformers” used to power the 12V halogen lamps which are very fashionable for indoor lighting. Those “transformers” are small swithcing power supplies which just chop the mains at about 40kHz, so a small ferrite core can be used for the isolation and the voltage step-down (to 12V RMS).
Generally it not a good idea to try to connect this kind of “transformer” to a normal light dimmer unless that “transformer” is a type which is designed to operate correctly with a normal light dimmer (in that case the fact is said on instructions of the “transformer” or it’s case). There are for exapmle some small transformers available which say “dimmable with normal light dimmer”, so those can be used without any problems with normal light dimmers.
Other “electronic transformers” I would not try to dim with a normal phase controlling light dimmer to avoid possible equipment damages. Quite many electronics transformers (but not all) which can’t be dimmed with normal light dimmer can be dimmed with transistor based reverse-phase type dimmers. I have read success tories on this, but never tried this method myself. If you are planning to use this method, then it is best to check that the electronic transformers you have dim nicely and you have a right kind of dimmer for them.
Some of the more expensive “transformers” incorporate a very neat dimmer functions also, operated by external controls, so with those there is no need for any external dimmer (just controls).
The basic dimmer operation principle is the same as in dimmers above. The only difference is how the dimemr is controlled. The rouch controlling is done using a special control IC and touchable metal plate. The dimmer usually has a metal plate which is coupled to the circuit via a high value resistor (>1Meg Ohm). Your body acts a little like an antenna and couples 50Hz mains signal (or 60 Hz depending on country) into the circuitry. The AC signal is fed to a shaping circuit(converted to a square wave) and then usually into a dimmer IC.
A typical touch dimmer has following circuit parts:
Touch dimmers which typically control the TRIAC in a 45°C to 152°C conductivity region of the mains half period while the IC draws its power from the remaining power up to the 180°C of the half period.
Siemens is one of the companies who supply these IC’s (for example SLB-0586). The IC itself will function differently depending how long you touch the plate for.
Lighting dimmers use phase-control – you switch on at a point on the supply voltage waveform after the zero-crossing, so that the total energy input to the lamp is reduced. The time between zero crossing and switching is controlled by external control interface which is most often 0-10V DC control voltage or digital DMX512 interface.
230V AC o---FUSE----LAMP--------------+-----------+---------------+ INPUT 2A | | | R2 | | / 2.2K | | R1 | R4 | 2.2 kohm / | 220 ohm / + o--//------+ | | 1W CONTROL __|_ ----> / R3 | / VOLTAGE LED _/_ ----> LDR | | | / __|__ TH1 | - o------------+ | _/_ BTA04/600T | +---|>| / | | | |<|--' | | C1 _|_ Diac | C2 _|_ 100 nF --- | 100 nF --- | | 250VAC | NEUTRAL o-----------------------------+-----------+---------------+
This circuit can control loads up to 2A (460VA). The circuit is basically a normal light dimmer circuit, but the potentiometer is replaced with LDR resistor which changes it’s resistance depending on the light level. In this circuit a LED powerred from control voltage source is used for shining variable intensity light to the LDR, so you must make sure that LDR does not receive light from other sources.
This circuit is basically very simple and not very sensitive on what LDR is used as R2. The disadvantage of this circuit is that the control is not very linear and the different dimmers built around this circuit can have quite varying characteristics (depending mainly on the LED and LDR characteristics). The control voltage is optically isolated from the dimmer circuit connected to mains. If you need a safety solation then remeber to have enough distace between the LED and LDR or use a transparent isolator between them to guarantee good electrical isolation. If the dimmer sensitivity is not suitable with the circuit described above, then you can adjust the value of R1 to get the control voltage range you want.
This circuit is a part of an automatic light dimmer circuit published in Elektor Electronics Magazine July/August 1998 issue pages 75-76.
Remotely controlled light dimmers in theatrical and architechtural applications typically use 0-10V control signal for controlling the lamp brightness. In this case 0V means that the lamp is on and 10V signal means that the lamp in fully on. A voltage between those values adjust the phase when the TRIAC will fire. Here is a typical control circuit schematic:
Comparator | Resistor 0-10V input >-------------|+ | >-----///------+ +---|- / | | | / optocoupler to TRIAC circuit | | Ramp signal Ground goes from 10V to 0V in one mains half cycle (10 ms at 50 Hz mains frequnecy)
The circuit works so that the comparator output in low when the input voltage is higher than the ramp voltage. When the ramp signal voltage gets lower than the input voltage the comparator output goes high which causes that curresnbt sarts to flow through resistor to optocoupler which causes the triac to connect. Because the ramp signal starts at every zero crossing from 10V and goes linearly to 0V at the time of one half cycle the input voltage controls the time when the triac is triggered after every zero crossing (so the voltage controls the ignition phase. The necessary linear ramp signal can be generated by a circuit which discharges a capacitor at constant current and charger it quickly at every zero crossing of mains voltage.
You can use your own circuit for triggering the TRIAC or you can use a ready made semiconductor relay for this (it comes in compact package and provides optoisolation in same package with TRIAC). If you plan to usre ready made solid state relay you need an SSR WITHOUT zero-crossing switching. You need an inductor in series with the switching element (SSR ot triac) to prevent di/dt problems and help to cut down emission of r.f. noise. Values vary typically from 40 uH to 6 mH: they are usually specified in terms of the rise-time of the switch-on edge. Typical home light dimmers use coil of 40..100 uH, whigh gives 30..50 microsecond rise time. Larger coil values give longer rise time values. Note that the rise time approximation only rough because the inductors used are non-linear: the inductance varies with load current.
The optocoupled TRIAC triggering circuit can be for example constructed using MOC3020 optodiac and some other component. Here is one example circuit (part of dimmer circuit from Elektor Electronics 302 circuits book):
R1 R2 180 1K +---///----------+ +----///-------------+------------+-----------> 230V 1| |6 | | Hot +=====+ IC1 | MT1 | | MOC | TRIAC +-+ | | 3020| Driver G | | TRIAC | +=====+ /| | TIC226D | 2| |4 / +-+ | +-------------------+ | | | MT2 | +-------------------+ | | | | | | | R4 / | | C1 1K | --- 100 nF / | --- 400V | | | | ) | | ( L1 | | ) 50..100 | | ( uH | | | | Neutral +--+------------+----o o--> 230V load
Most professional stage-ligting dimmers do use solid state relays. They have more in them than you would expect, usually including opto-isolation of the control input. The exact contents are commercially confidential but the operation of voltage controlled version is very similar to the idea described above.
Many professiona light dimmer have also extra adjustments available for make them work better in their operating environment. One typical setting is cause preheat. When preheat is used a small (adjustable) current is always passed thought the light bulbs eve thought the light channel is set off at the lighting desk. This preheat current keeps the lamp filaments warm (but not warm enough to give considerable light output) so that the current surge when lights are turned on again is rediced. This reduced current peak increases the life of the light bulbs.
Another adjustment available in some dimmers is response speed settting. A dimmer’s response speed is the time it takes for the dimmer’s outptu to arrive at a new level after it receives the new level setting instruction from the control desk. This time is typically measured in milliseconds. Typical response speeds available on dimmer products are in range of 30..500 milliseconds. A fast response speed is useful in light effects and concert lighting. In studio uses the light need not typically have to change very rapidly, so it might be a nice thig if dimmer goes slowly from old setting to new value. A slower response speed have beneficial effects on lamp life, since the shock to cold filaments will be reduced, as the time period required to ramp then to full brightness is increased.
Some lught dimmers have also a setting to adjust the control voltage range. 0-10V controlling is the most common way to do the controlling of small dimmer systems, but there have been also other voltage levels in use. If the dimmer has an adjustment which voltage range it takes, it can be adjusted to work correctly with many different light control desks.
The simplest form of the controlling is that the voltage directly controls the phase when the triac condicts. This works, but is not the best response from the control potentiometer to the dimemr module. For this reasons differen manufactuers have developed many different response curves from the control voltage to the dimmer output. Here are some of the most common ones:
Nowadays some advanced commercial dimmers support many of those control voltage response curves so that the user can set the dimemr to use the mode which is the most convient for the user in the particular application.
If you want a digital control of light dimmer you can use a simple microcontroller to do the phase controlling. The microcontroller has to first read the dimmer setting value through some interface (commercial digital dimmers use DMX512 interface). typically the control value is 8 bit number where 0 means light off and 255 that light is fully on.
The microcontroller can easily generate the necessary trigger signal using following algorith:
Software loop is quite simple method and useful when you know how long time it takes to execute each microprocessor command. Another possibility is to utilize microcontroller timers:
Reverse phase control is a new way to do light dimming. The idea in reverse phase controlling is to turn on then switching component to conduct at at every zero crossing point and turn it off at the adjustable position in the middle of the AC current phase. Tming of the turn-off point then controls the power to the load. The waveform is exact reverse of that is used in traditional light dimmers.
... ... . | . | . | . | ------------------------------------ 0V . | . | . | . | ... ...
Because the switching component must be turned off at the middle of the AC phase, traditional thyristors and TRIACs are not suitable components. Possible components for this kind of controlling would be transistors, FETs, IGBTs and GTO-thyristors. Power MOSFETs are quite suitable components for this and they have been used in some example dimmer circuits.
Reverse phase controlling has some advantages over traditional dimmers in many dimmer applications. The manufactuers of inverse phase dimmers adverstise their products to be more efficent and less noisy. Using proper controlling electronics it is possible to build a reverse phase dimmer without any magnetics or vibrations caused by them.
Because turning on point is always exact at the zero phase there are no huge current spikes and EMI caused by turn on. Using power MOSFETs it is possible to make the turn-off rate relatively slot to achieve quite operations in terms of EMI and acoustical or incandescent lamp filament noise.
One old approach for dimming of lights is do it by using variable transformer (Variac or similar brand) as a dimmer. Some of these are made specifically for this application – they’ll fit into a double-size wall box (maybe even into a single-size wall box if you get a small one) and will handle several hundred watts. They’re heavy and mechanically “stiff” (compared to a triac dimmer) and not cheap – but they put out a nice, clean 60 Hz sinewave (or very near to it) at all voltages, and don’t add switching noise.
Zero cross switching will minimize noise in switchign and dimming. Unfortunately that appriach is not very practical for lampi dimming. At 60 Hz line frequency, you’d be limited to turning the lamp on and off at discrete 120 Hz intervals. You’d easily end up with a rather nasty 15-20 Hz flickering, unless the dimmer-driver can do some sort of dithering to spread out the flicker spectrum. I’ve never seen a dimmer of this sort being used.
In some occasions a single diode can be to dim a light bulb when wired in series with the lamp. The diode then passes only the positive or negative half of the mains voltage to the light bulb. If you put a switch in parallel with the diode, you end up having a dimmer wich has two settings: full on and dimmed. Diode will indeed work on small loads, but with larger loads the DC component this diode causes is not good for the distribution transformers in the electrical distribution system (will cause them them to heat up more than in normal use).
NOTE: The following information is taken from the discussion from sci.engr.electrical.compliance newsgroup discussion at February-March 2000. The facts have not been checked against any standard documents, but I suspect that the information is quite much correct because most of the writers of the articles where experts on the field (for example John Woodgate) and the information makes sense to me.
Mains harmonics are typically tested from mains frequency up to 2 kHz frequency (2.4 kHz in 60 Hz countries). Phase controlled dimmers up to 1 kW do not need to be tested for harmonics. There is no point, because the harmonics are very predictable and there is nothing much the designer can do to reduce them.
Professional (as defined in IEC/EN61000-3-2) dimmers over 1 kW up to 3680 W are also not subject to limits.
Dimmers above 3680 W, which are all professional, come under the future IEC/EN61000-3-12, and it is still being discussed whether they need to have an Rsce (as defined in IEC61000-3-4) limitation or not.
Light dimmers need to meet conducted emission standards. Conducted emissions start at 9 kHz for some products and for dimmers the applicable standard for those is CISPR15/EN55015. That standard is applicable to lighting equipments and an accessory for a luminaire (like a light dimmer is).
There is no exception in CISPR15/EN55015 standard (which now applies, rather than CISPR14/EN55014). Dimmers for household use need to meet Class B limits, but Class A should be OK for professional dimmers. The conducted emissions are mostly harmonics and can exist up to megahertz frequecny region.
To meet the conducted emission limits is not very easy, especially for professional dimmers. The choke hardly helps, because a typical filtering self-resonates at around 100 kHz (higher for low-power household dimmers). Above those frequencies the coil does not suppress the high frequency harmonics. This means that it is often necessary to sprinkle quite large (up to 1 uF) capacitors around the circuit to reduce the emissions. In professional dimmers this demands that inductances in the wiring be reduced to a minimum, otherwise the caps and wiring inductances resonate and emissions go up instead of down.
A lot of manufacterers of professional dimmers ground thyristors heat sink, effectivly coupling RF noise into the earth lead. This will reduce the radiated emissions and there might be safety considerations to do that. The downside of the RF (harmonics) coupled to ground wire is that in some cases the inductance of the earth lead is so high that the appliance case carries a noticeable voltage.
2009年11月22日 at 下午12:07分类:调光技术文章
一、关键词名词解释
(1)可控硅(SCR):正式名称是反向阻断三端晶闸管,简称晶闸管(thyristor)
(2)绝缘栅双极晶体管(insulated gate bipolar transistor,IGBT):新一代半导体电力开关器件,是一种复合器件,其输入部控制部分为MOSTER,输出级为双极结型三极晶体管。
(3)IGBT正弦波调光器:采用绝缘栅双极型晶体管(IGBT)做大功率器件,将输入有正负弦谐振波的交流电和电压变成输出无谐振波的交流电和电压称为连贯性正弦波的调光器.
二、可控硅调光器的工作原理
在论述正弦波调光器的工作原理之前,首先回顾一下可控硅调光器的工作原理。如下图所示:
图1 可控硅调光器的主回路原理图
ui 输入电源电压,在我国为220V。uo调光器输出电压,外接灯泡。S1,S2 两个可控硅或一个双向可控硅。控制电路在交流电压过零点后延迟一个相位角去触发可控硅S1导通,直到下一个过零点可控硅被反相截止,下一个相位角再触发可控硅S2导通,直到再下一个过零点又被反相截止,这样周而复始地工作。
输入和输出波形如下:
图2 输入电压电流随时间变化的波形
注:为使波形图整齐,纵坐标采用%,最大100%,最小 -100%。横坐标采用°/周期,最大360°/周期。原因是这些波形适合一个宽广的电压和频率范围。如果给定一个固定电压和频率,其适用范围将很小。
图3 可控硅调光器的输出波形
这种输出电压波形在触发点处有一个很陡的前沿,电压突然从零跳变到输入值。如果用它去控制电阻性负载或电感性负载没有什么问题,如果用它去控制具有电容性负载的灯源时,由于电容器二端电压不能实变,于是会产生峰值很高的浪涌电流,这种浪涌电流会产生电磁干扰,破坏电网质量,甚至会损坏电气设备,一般通过串联电感性扼流线圈来降低它的上升时间,减少电磁干扰。因此可控硅调光器引入LC滤波环节。L2 输出滤波电感,C2输出滤波电容(其实这个电容主要指分布电容和负载电容)。其作用是使被斩波后的波形的前沿变为圆角。
图4 可控硅调光器增加了滤波环节后的输出波形
三.采用IGBT代替SCR
自从可控硅(晶闸管)发明以来,功率半导体器件从SCR(普通晶闸管)、GTO(门极可关断晶闸管)、TRIS(双向晶闸管)、BJT(双极型晶体管)又称为GTR(电力晶体管)、MOSFET(金属氧化物硅场效应管)、SIT(静电感应晶体管)、SITH(静电感应晶闸管)、MGT(MOS控制晶体管)、MCT(MOS控制晶闸管)发展到今天的IGBT(绝缘栅双极型晶体管)、HVIGBT(耐高压IGBT)、IGCT(集成门极换流晶闸管)。在中、高压功率应用中,要求将最为成熟的晶体管和晶闸管技术与高性价比的门极关断特性有机地结合起来。迄今为止,IGBT与IGCT是符合这种要求的最佳器件。IGCT适合用于低频率,大电流的场合。
只有IGBT才是中高频率,中功率应用的“正弦波调光器”功率器件的最佳选择。因而方达
公司选择IGBT开发“正弦波调光器”。
在调光器的主回路不变的情况下,采用IGBT代替SCR。
图5 IGBT代替SCR后调光器的主回路示意图
在这种电路中若IGBT和SCR一样工作在相控方式,就会和SCR一样解决不了正弦波形被斩割和产生高次谐波干扰这二大问题,而且由于相控工作方式的工作电流不是在整个正弦波周期内流过控制器件的,因而电能的利用效率较低。输出波形如下
图6 IGBT调光器工作在相控方式的输出波形
人们偏爱正弦波是因为正弦波形不包含谐波,没有谐波的危害,可以减少损耗并能提高效率。更进一步,电机﹑变压器和其它电气设备设计时都假定了供电电源是正弦的,从而简化了设计。所以想到充分利用IGBT的大电流下,整个周波可控的特点,采用PWM工作方式。使PWM调制波(载波)工作频率高达50KHz(载波频率越高,谐波含量越小,所需要的滤波电感及电容越小,输出电流和电压越逼近正弦波),用富立叶级数展开分析可知,电源电流中不包含低次谐波,只含有和开关频率50KHz有关的高次谐波。谐波电流随次数依次递减,加之滤波电感的存在,谐波电流随次数的减小是很迅速的,由于没有低次谐波,谐波总量是很小的,这有效地保证了输出波形的完美性。方达公司的“IGBT正弦波调光器”的输出电压和电流都为工频正弦波,并且与输入波形完全一样,在高速存储示波器上观测,输出与输入波形完全重合。波形畸变率和谐波所占比率都不足1%。滤波环节前的输出波形如下。
图7 IGBT调制后的电压电流随时间变化的波形(示意图)
LC滤波后的电压电流随时间变化的波形(幅度较小),为了对比图中给出了输入电压电流随时间变化的波形(幅度较大)。输出电压电流波形在0~输入电压电流波形中间调幅变化。
图8 输出电压电流随时间变化的波形(幅度较小)
输入电压电流随时间变化的波形(幅度较大)
由于大功率高速IGBT及其驱动保护线路成本较高,采用一个整流桥和一个IGBT取代双向的两个IGBT。
图9 纯正弦波调光器的主IGBT回路示意图
为了使IGBT工作更安全,输入增加了LC滤波,用以抑制输入的电压和电流尖峰干扰。
图10 增加输入滤波纯正弦波调光器的主IGBT回路示意图
为了IGBT换流安全而引入并联快速二极管及保护电容。
图11 引入并联快速二极管及保护电容纯正弦波调光器的主IGBT回路示意图
为了使它的工作范围宽广(可以应用于阻性,容性,感性),引入了换流环节。以使主IGBT VF!关断时,负载及输出电感中的电流有返回的通路。
图12 FDL纯正弦波调光器的主回路原理图
输出部分为LC,它本身为一个振荡器,为此引入RC输出滤波器,有效地防止了LC谐波振荡问题,使方达“IGBT正弦波调光器”可以安全稳定地运行。
图13 FDL纯正弦波调光器的完整主回路原理图
四.我们把上面的FDL纯正弦波调光器的完整主回路原理图和可控硅调光器的主回路原理图对比可见,FDL纯正弦波调光器远比可控硅调光器复杂。加之IGBT又远比SCR贵,再加上复杂的驱动和保护,FDL纯正弦波调光器的成本比同容量的可控硅调光器要高得多。
不过,从下面几个方面综合考虑,购买FDL纯正弦波调光器还是值得的。
1. 输出谐波分量几乎可以忽略(噪声和电噪音污染很低)
——对其它仪器和设备干扰甚小
——无灯丝噪音
2.没有负载特性限制(适用于任何负载)
3.对电网电压和频率不敏感(在可控硅调光器不能使用的畸变严重的偏远地区的电网电和小柴油发电机的发电及小容量的直流逆变电,FDL纯正弦波调光器表现出色)
4.节省供配电系统和灯具布线成本高达40%。当国家严格谐波标准后,对电网污染严重的可控硅斩波方式用电比对电网无污染的正弦波方式用电电费高出100%完全可能。更为严重的是随着“绿色照明工程”的推进,以及绿色环保的呼声越来越高,可控硅调光器随时都有可能被迫退出市场,到那时再换成纯正弦波调光器将造成巨大的浪费(淘汰可控硅调光器换成纯正弦波调光器的重复投资不算,仅仅为适用于可控硅调光器供配电系统和灯具布线而增大了的40%容量就是巨大的浪费
正弦波技术目前还不够十分稳定,各个厂家均有正弦波的产品出炉,不过目前大多还处于试验性应用阶段
2009年11月22日 at 上午2:15分类:调光技术文章
白炽灯:前沿切相或后沿切相调光
AC220V卤素灯:前沿切相或后沿切相调光
电感变压器:前沿切相
电子变压器:后沿切相(亦有支持前沿切相的产品)
荧光灯:DC 0-10V,DSI,DALI
气体放电灯,金卤灯:不便调光
冷阴极管:可调,各个厂家,各个产品的调光性能不一
LED:PWM方式调光
2009年11月21日 at 下午10:16分类:调光技术文章
感性负载:即和电源相比当负载电流滞后负载电压一个相位差时负载为感性(如负载为电动机、变压器)。
容性负载:即和电源相比当负载电流超前负载电压一个相位差时负载为容性(如负载为补偿电容)。
阻性负载:即和电源相比当负载电流负载电压没有相位差时负载为阻性(如负载为白炽灯、电炉)。
混联电路中容抗比感抗大,电路呈容性反之为感性。
感性负载:电流滞后电压一个角度,比如电动机
容性负载:电流操前电压一个角度,如:电容
阻性负载:电流与电压同相位,如;电阻炉.